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Fougasse: A Savory Cultural History
What is la fougasse? This savory flatbread has ancient origins in the Mediterranean region and is characterized by its rustic appearance and diverse sallée (salty) flavors. Some might call it a French focaccia, a provencal bread, and a close cousin to Italy’s famous flatbread. Made from simple ingredients, and available at many patisseries and markets throughout southern France, the most complicated aspect might be the fougasse pronunciation! A sweet version also features in the 13 desserts (les treize desserts) of Christmas (or Nöel) in Provence which we explain later in this article.
In truth, I adore fougasse, it is one of my absolute favorite things about southern France. (Rosé wine is second and pain-au-chocolate is #3 if any of you are curious.)
Fougasse has a rich cultural history and strong ties to Provençal cuisine in southern France. Undoubtedly, we enjoy fougasse aux lardons or the olive bread version as an apéritif with a glass of Tavel rosé wine and some olives like the Romans likely did…whenever we can.
This humble bread arrived in southern France during antiquity and still is crafted with the same ingredients: wheat flour, yeast, and olive oil.
However, before we delve into its history, and uncover regional distinctions, holiday traditions, and intriguing legends surrounding this humble bread, let’s prepare!
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Get your Napoleon-inspired French wine glass, put out some herbes de Provence cured olives, and pour yourself a lovely glass of wine and allons-y!
But first…how is it pronounced?
![[a large savory fougasse bread on a table with wine and olives]Fugas bread, Fougasse, Fougasse bread, Fougasse aux lardons, savory flatbread, French Focaccia, Provencal cuisine, Provencal bread, Provençal bread](https://discovercotesdurhone.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Fougasse.jpg)
How is Fougasse Pronounced?
Although I’m not a linguist and don’t speak Latin, now that I know of the connection between focaccia and fougasse, it’s clear to see how “focacius” evolved into fougasse in the Old Occitan language. (In ancient times, this region was known as Occitanie or Occitania, which we will explore in future posts. Due to recent regional re-structuring in French administrative regions, the area where we have our country house is once again Occitanie.)
Evidently, according to Wikipedia, the savory flatbread would have been called fogatza.
To sum up and put it simply, it is pronounced: fu-gass.
Historical Origins - Focaccia
Derived from the Latin term “panis focacius,” meaning “hearth bread,” Romans introduced fougasse to southern France. Following the same route as wine, brought by Romans to Massalia (Marseille), it proliferated along the Rhône as communities were conquered and grapes were planted.
Locals in what is now Provence and Languedoc quickly embraced the bread’s popularity. In Italy, a counterpart emerged, known as focaccia. Hence, discovering this savory flatbread in southern France might lead some to affectionately call it French focaccia.
“As the Romans began expanding their empire to France and Spain, they brought focaccia with them, spreading its popularity across continental Europe. The bread was mostly a poor man’s meal, baked to feed slaves and peasants. – Jenny Arena, FablesandFocaccia.com
Culinary Evolution: A Savory Bread
This provençal bread was traditionally baked in the communal village oven, establishing a sense of unity and camaraderie among inhabitants.
According to Fougasse.org, panis focacius means “a flatbread baked on a hearth or under the ashes of a fire.”
Over the centuries, this savory flatbread gradually transformed. As wood-fired ovens evolved, bakers began baking this bread first to assess the temperature. The time it took to bake provided information to medieval bakers about the oven’s temperature before they loaded in other breads. This gave rise to the French phrase: “il ne faut pas brûler la fougasse” (do not burn the fougasse).
Furthermore, unlike focaccia, it is now typically shaped like a leaf or the head of a wheat stalk. These holes in the bread allow a higher crust-to-interior ratio, resulting in a wonderfully crunchy texture.
Myths, Legends, and French Provençal Christmas Traditions
![[Thirteen desserts displayed on table as part of a French provencal holiday including a sweet fougasse] Fugas bread, Fougasse, Fougasse bread, French Focaccia, Provencal cuisine, Provencal bread, Provençal bread, fougasse pronunciation, savory flatbread](https://discovercotesdurhone.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/13dessertscrop.jpg)
Fougasse is not merely a simple bread; it embodies myths and celebrations.
Furthermore, in some Provençal villages, people believe that the bread’s design, resembling a wheat sheaf, was employed to repel evil spirits during religious ceremonies. I also have a hunch that the wheat shape might be linked to harvest celebrations.
In different regions, fougasse is intertwined with festivities, like the Feast of Saint John, where it is a tradition to savor fougasse alongside a glass of wine. It’s also an important role in French Christmas traditions known as les treize desserts.
What are the 13 desserts of Christmas in Provençe France?
Provençal French Christmas traditions include the eating of thirteen desserts on Christmas Eve. Among the dessert items, you’ll find pompe l’huile, also known as the fougasse d’Arles.
Significantly, the tradition of thirteen desserts is rooted in the symbolism of Jesus and his twelve apostles during the Last Supper. Following this tradition, it is customary to provide thirteen different sweets on the table, which are eaten following le Gros Souper 0n Christmas Eve. Each guest is meant to sample every sweet.
The table is often set with three white linen tablecloths and three candlesticks representing the Holy Trinity. The sweets are left out and can be eaten into the next day.
The main items presented in les treize desserts:
- Dried fruits
- Nuts
- Nougat
- Sweets (a Banyul is suggested which comes from the nearby Languedoc-Roussillon AOC)
- and locally produced wines
After researching several articles and posts on this topic, I found this article shared by WanderLust tours, to offer the most thorough explanation of the tradition and food items.
The best recipe for pompe l’huile, should you be so bold as to choose to make one, I found this post from Le Chef’sWife to be most charming.
My first Christmas in Provence-Occitane had a similar shopping experience for last minute holiday treats!
“Fougasse or pompe à l’Huile, an olive oil flatbread, is eaten with grape jam made during the last harvest season. The tradition is to break the bread into individual servings with the fingers, rather than cut the bread with a knife. Legend goes that this protects one’s wealth from bankruptcy in the coming year. The Pompe à l’huile (olive oil brioche), or la Pompo, becomes a Gibassié when it’s sprinkled with sugar and broken into pieces as Christ broke the bread.” – OnlyinProvence.com
![[3 images of a savory provencal shaped like the head of wheat] Fugas bread, Fougasse, Fougasse bread, Fougasse olive bread, Fougasse aux lardons, Panis focacius Savory flatbread, French Focaccia, Provencal cuisine, Provencal bread, Provençal bread, fougasse pronunciation](https://discovercotesdurhone.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/Photo-Collage-Pancake-Recipe-Blog-Banner-1024x576.jpg)
Regional Distinctions
Undoubtedly, fougasse in its various iterations is appreciated across a wide range of Mediterranean cuisines.
- Provence showcases the classic fougasse adorned with olives and rosemary.
- Meanwhile in Languedoc, in southwest France, there are sweet renditions filled with fruit and anise seeds.
- The ancient port city of Aigues-Mortes, the fougasse d’Aigues-Mortes stands out with its flaky, puff pastry-like texture.
- Another version found along the Mediterranean coast in Marseille and Nice, is fougasse with anchovies, tapenade, and sun-dried tomatoes. This embodies the best of coastal flavors.
- In the picturesque region of Corsica, they celebrate with fougasse Bonifacienne. Made from a delightful mix of figs and nuts, it captures the island’s essence.
- Fougasse takes on a rustic charm in the Pyrenees, with ingredients like cheese, ham, and even wild mushrooms.
- In Valencia, Spain, which is on our immediate “to visit” lists, as it’s where my husband’s father’s family came from, there’s a similar oven bread, called pataqueta.
- Finally, even the Principality of Monaco has its version, fougasse Monegasque, which is decorated in the colors of the country’s flag. Perhaps due to proximity to Italy, the Monegasques might call the savory version French focaccia!
The allure of fougasse lies in its adaptability to local ingredients and traditions, resulting in an array of distinctive regional varieties.
Award-Winning Producers and Contemporary Appeal
The enduring love for fougasse has given rise to a new generation of bakers and patissiers who combine traditional techniques with modern creativity.
Maison Landemaine, a Parisian bakery chain, and Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse, celebrated for transforming this rustic bread into a culinary art form, stand out among the notable producers. Indeed, here’s his recipe, an homage to the French Riviera, available in French only.
Side note: If you are a French foodie, especially pastry, David Liebowitz‘s blog/newsletter and books are must-haves. I adored The Sweet Life in Paris, My Paris Kitchen, and look forward to checking out his most recent, Drinking French.
Where to Buy Fougasse
Fougasse can be found in many places in France including Paris.
In the south, many artisan boulangeries and even large grocery store chains offer it.
We purchase and consume fougasses wherever we find it, especially at our marchés (local weekly markets) and the artisan bread bakers who display their wares. At a busy market like the one in Uzés, they go fast so buy more than one!
In fact, two of our favorite spots when we are in the Gard are:
- La Fougasse d’Uzès à Uzès (Gard)
- Chabanal Bakery in Goudargues
- Chez Lisette is another recommendation when visiting Avignon.
Fougasse Bread Recipe and Appearance
Creating an authentic fougasse takes you on a culinary journey. The basic recipe includes flour, water, yeast, olive oil, and salt. After preparing the dough, incorporate regional ingredients like herbs, fruits, cheese, or nuts. The possibilities mirror southern France’s diverse landscape. Bake it on a flat surface.
In France, the distinct fougasse shape, featuring intricate designs, contrasts with Italy’s focaccia. Aesthetics play a vital role in French culinary presentation, fostering creativity. French bakers proudly craft fougasse as edible art, reflecting an appreciation for craftsmanship and artisanal excellence.
Contrastingly, Italian focaccia, with its simpler appearance, highlights pure olive oil and herb flavors. It bakes in a deep, oiled pan. These differences in shape and decoration underline each nation’s unique culinary sensibilities, enhancing the individual charm of both fougasse and focaccia.
How to Make Fougasse
I admit, I have not yet tried to make fougasse although I do like to bake and study pastry-making. I will attempt to make it soon and share my results.
For this reason, I’m a big fan of The French Pastry School in Chicago and find their videos easy to follow. Here’s one where they prepare a very large fougasse like the one we enjoyed, pictured above, for my sister’s birthday.
I’ve discovered that if you search ‘French focaccia’, you might actually find more recipes online than for fougasse.
The Wrap Up
In conclusion, fougasse, born in the heart of southern France during Roman times, has evolved over the centuries into a delightful range of regional specialties.
Part of local legends, and holiday celebrations, it has become an integral part of the cultural and culinary landscape. With a resurgence in artisanal baking, contemporary fougasse producers continue to delight taste buds and earn accolades for their dedication to this ancient and cherished bread.
Fougasse remains a true gastronomic treasure that not only feeds the body but also nourishes the soul. If you’d like to try your hand at making it, make sure you have quality olive oil (Provençal preferred) and some fleur de sel. I adore buying multiples of Le Saunier de Camargue Fleur de Sel which makes a GREAT host/ess gift.
One more thing...
We hope you enjoyed this deep dive into the provencal bread, a true favorite of ours. We hope you are confident now with the fougasse pronunciation to saunter into a patisserie and order one in every flavor!
Even if you want to call it French focaccia, we’d love to hear from you! So, please submit your comments below, or sign up for our email.
And finally, below are some Viator tour options that we’ve combed through for their foodie focus and have added them to our “must-do” list.
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Loved the fougasse article. Really interesting and makes my mouth water remembering what we ate at in South of France at le mas!
Fougasse about it!
Loved the article and the site! I learned new things, and I’m up for the challenge to see how I do making fougasse and where I can buy one if and when I blow it. Great site! Can’t wait for more ❤️
That’s so lovely to hear! I do love me some TJ.